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上环:香港潮人的聚集地 [Copy link] 中文

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Post time 2012-5-29 10:46:50 |Display all floors

From WSJ

Where Hong Kong's Hipsters Hang Out


2012年 05月 29日 07:33




Hong Kong doesn't leave a visitor wanting for nights out on the town. Central has its members-only clubs, and Tsim Sha Tsui its skyscraper cigar lounges, while neighborhoods like Mongkok and Wan Chai teem with earthier entertainment.

But if you're looking for an upscale, bohemian alternative to all of the above, where's the left-of-center neighborhood where you can mingle with the city's creative types? The answer, of late: Sheung Wan.

In the past few years, the district at the corner of Central and Mid-Levels has acquired a laid-back vibe thanks to a host of independent restaurateurs, boutique owners and gallerists setting up shop. Pushed westward by Central's skyrocketing rents, they have taken their place alongside the Chinese antique dealers and dried-fish vendors that Sheung Wan is known for, and in doing so they have begun to remake the district in their image.

'The area is changing fast, but we're trying to respect its community feel,' says David Baudrie, a Frenchman who has opened two boutiques along Tai Ping Shan Street in the past year. The area isn't for those looking for a wild night out, but, he says, 'where you come to share a nice bottle of wine and hang out with friends.'

Start your ramble where Central's SoHo district ends and Sheung Wan begins, at the stairs from Hollywood Road to Mee Lun Street. The hidden gem you're looking for is Visage One, a one-seat hair salon by day that transforms into a tiny lounge on Saturday nights. Stylist cum barkeep Benky Chan keeps the menu as simple as his cubbyhole's gallery-white walls -- beer, wine, whiskey or water -- but some of the city's best jazz musicians are known to drop in for impromptu sessions.

If it happens to be midweek, and you want to kick off your night with a bang, Volume, arguably Hong Kong's hippest gay club, sits just across the street and offers free vodka shots every Wednesday from 7 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. as part of its 'New Arrivals' night, welcoming visitors and the freshly transplanted to the scene. The crowd skews stylishly gay, naturally, but all are welcome.

Farther down Hollywood Road you'll find 208 Duecento Otto, unmistakable for its two-story, cast-iron facade. The stylish bar-lounge area of this New York Italian outfit offers 20 varieties of wine by the glass, and makes a mean classic cocktail. Try the 208 Bronx, a tart house signature mixed from gin, bianco, orange bitters, fresh orange and lemon.

A few doors down sits homey Heirloom Eatery, where you can grab a quirky vintage chair and wash down a Balinese fish taco or two with another vibrant house concoction known as the Suzy Wong (a mutation of the Mojito, made with vodka, Thai basil and ginger ale).

Back uphill toward Mid-Levels, Oolaa, a sprawling, 120-seat bar-restaurant, is a favorite for Sunday brunch but draws a stylish crowd for after-work wine by the glass. The establishment down the street -- the one with a huddle of good-looking 30-somethings waiting outside -- is the vexingly no-reservations Yardbird, one of Hong Kong's hottest tables since it opened last summer.

The creation of Matt Abergel, formerly of Masa in New York and Hong Kong's Zuma, Yardbird is a self-described Japanese gastropub and has won rave reviews for its nose-to-tail chicken yakitori. But it's worth a visit for the drinks alone. Once you've downed a Bloody Kim Jong Il -- a Bloody Mary spiked with kimchi -- don't be surprised if you find yourself calling out for a few of its celebrated skewers.

Pushing on into Sheung Wan, make your way to Tai Ping Shan Street, where the gentrification of the district is happening fast. Every few weeks, a new, high-concept cafe or pop-up retailer seems to be opening its doors along this cozy, walkable strip. Mr. Baudrie's latest lifestyle boutique, Kouch, doubles as a wine shop and one-room hangout, selling vintages from family-owned wineries in France and California.

If you find yourself in Sheung Wan on the last Friday of any given month, check out Square Street, behind Man Mo Temple, where Swedish designers David Ericsson and Alexis Holm serve free beer from the storefront of Squarestreet, their watch, shoe and leather-goods workshop-showroom. The duo's boozy neighborhood block parties, which begin around 8 p.m., invariably attract the police with noise complaints and have become a monthly meeting ground for the city's young international set.

Still going strong past midnight? XXX Gallery is your final port of call. One of the few venues in the city that can reasonably stake a claim to the label 'underground,' this basement space in Sheung Wan's commercial heart -- established by Hong Kong-based DJ Enso, originally of San Francisco -- doesn't even have a liquor license, so you'll have to pick up your own drinks at a convenience store. Proceed to dance on the sofas to the visiting DJ or indie band of the night, and don't be surprised if the sun is already up when you finally stumble out into a new day.

Patrick Brzeski

Use magic tools Report

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Post time 2012-5-29 10:47:31 |Display all floors

2012年 05月 29日 07:33



Diana Jou for The Wall Street Journal


Yardbird餐厅从去年夏天开张以来就一直是香港最热门的餐厅之一。



港不会让任何一个想在城中过夜生活的游客失望。中环(Central)有会员制俱乐部,尖沙咀(Tsim Sha Tsui)有设于摩天大楼高层的雪茄吧,而旺角(Mongkok)和湾仔(Wan Chai)等地带则充满着更为粗俗淳朴的消遣活动。

但如果你想在别处找一个高档且具有波西米亚超凡气质的地方,哪里能让你和香港的创意界人士打成一片呢?答案就是上环(Sheung Wan)。

过去几年里,由于大量独立餐厅以及精品店和画廊的出现,位于中环和半山(Mid-Levels)角落的上环区有了一种散漫悠闲的氛围。中环飞涨的租金把这些店往西边挤,它们在上环找到了落脚地,与这里有名的中国古董商和干鱼小贩为伍。这些店开始以自己的形象改造上环。

法国人大卫•伯德雷(David Baudrie)去年在太平山街(Tai Ping Shan Street)开了两家精品店。他说,这个地区正在迅速改变,它不是供人寻求刺激夜生活的,而是和朋友来这里分享一瓶好酒和聚会的地方。

从荷李活道(Hollywood Road)至美轮街(Mee Lun Street)的阶梯开始逛,这里是中环SoHo区和上环相连的地方。你要找的那个隐秘的好地方是Visage One,它在白天是一家只有一个座位的美发沙龙,到了周六晚上就变成了一个小酒吧。发型师兼酒吧店主Benky Chan把酒单弄得跟自己小吧里的白 一样简单──只有啤酒、葡萄酒、威士忌和水──但香港最好的几位爵士乐手却常造访这里即兴表演。

Diana Jou for The Wall Street Journal


纽约式意大利餐厅208 Duecento Otto。

如果是周三,你想以比较刺激的感觉拉开夜生活的序幕,那就去街对面的Volume。它可以说是香港最时髦的同性恋俱乐部,每周三晚是欢迎游客以及入会新人的“迎新”日,晚7点至9点半提供免费伏特加。很自然里面的人主要都是装扮入时的同性恋,但所有人都会受到欢迎。

从荷李活道再往前走你会找到纽约式意大利餐厅208 Duecento Otto。是一栋铸铁门面的两层楼,你肯定不会找错地方的。餐厅时尚的酒吧休闲区提供20种单杯点的葡萄酒,还有非常好的经典鸡尾酒。尝尝208 Bronx吧,这是一种由金酒、bianco、橙皮苦酒、新鲜橙子和柠檬调制而成的特色鸡尾酒,口味辛辣。

往前再过几家店就是温馨舒适的Heirloom Eatery餐厅,你可以在这里占上一把造型奇特的老式椅子,吃上一两个巴厘岛的鱼肉沙拉玉米饼,搭配一种名为Suzy Wong的色彩鲜艳的特色鸡尾酒(由莫吉托(Mojito)改造调制而成,配料有伏特加、泰国罗勒和姜汁汽水)。

回头往山上的半山区走,你会看见有120个座位的大型餐吧Oolaa,这里是周日吃早午餐的绝佳去处,不过也吸引了很多下班后喝单杯葡萄酒的时尚人士。街那头的房子──就是有一群30多岁的俊美人士挤在门前等位的那个地方──是Yardbird餐厅,它从去年夏天开张以来就一直是香港最热门的餐厅之一。餐厅不能预订的规定着实让人恼火。

Yardbird餐厅老板是曾担任纽约Masa餐厅及香港Zuma餐厅主厨的马特•阿博格尔(Matt Abergel)。Yardbird对自身的描述是日式美食酒吧,其包括鸡身上各个部位的“烧鸟”(yakitori,烤鸡肉串)获得了热烈好评。不过只是为喝酒也值得来一趟。喝下一杯血腥金正日(Bloody Kim Jong Il )──血腥玛丽(Bloody Mary)掺入韩国泡菜──后你肯定会忍不住要叫上几串这里有名的烤肉串。

继续深入上环,往太平山街方向走,这里正在进行迅速的旧城改造。每隔几周,好像就会有一家新的“高概念”咖啡厅或时髦的零售店在这条舒适的、适于步行的狭长地带开张。伯德雷最新的生活方式体验馆Kouch既是葡萄酒店又是一间休闲吧,出售来自法国和加利福尼亚家庭酿酒厂的美酒。

如果某个月的最后一个星期五你在上环,那就去文武庙(Man Mo Temple)后面的四方街(Square Street)看看。瑞典设计师大卫•埃里克森(David Ericsson)和亚历克西斯•霍尔姆(Alexis Holm)在其临街的手表、鞋和皮制品作坊展示厅Squarestreet供应免费啤酒。二人常举办喝酒狂欢的街头派对,从晚上8点左右开始,已经成为香港年轻的外籍人士每月的聚会之地,常常会因为噪音投诉招来警察。

午夜过后依然觉得精力充沛?那么XXX Gallery就是你的最后一站。这家酒吧位于上环商业中心的一处地下室,由来自旧金山、住在香港的DJ恩索(Enso)创建。这里是香港少数几个可以配得上“地下”标签的酒吧之一,连售酒执照都没有,所以你需要自己去便利店买好酒带过去,配合这位远道而来的DJ的音乐或当晚独立乐队的表演,在沙发上尽情跳舞。当你最后晕晕乎乎地看到太阳已经升起来了时,新的一天已经到来了。

Patrick Brzeski

Use magic tools Report

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