Kinmen, on the other hand, has nothing like the population of Xiamen though it's roughly the same size but different bow-tie shape. All the four town centres are quite small, the vegetation is thick and green and the customary architecture is being restored to former beauty. Much of that has been knocked down in Xiamen and while a few patches of greenery have been preserved, most of the island is covered in ever higher high-rise. I hope Kinmen can keep its rural and traditional style safe from over-development. It is sobering on both sides of the water to see the museums of the costly struggle that went on for nearly fifty years in this corner of the world, mostly unknown to the west. I should add that Kinmen is just a half hour ferry ride from Xiamen and is visible on most days from Xiamen beaches. Little Kinmen has a propaganda slogan facing Xiamen's own gigantic set of characters and the remains of the broadcasting speakers can still be seen. I once met a woman who was one of the "voices" across the water as each side lured the others to join them, also dropping gifts and leaflets in between artillery shells. Now the shell casings make the best steel cooking knives and are one of Kinmen's chief products. I had circled Little Kinmen on a tour boat with domestic tourists a few years ago when exchanges were rarer, and saw Chinese burst into tears and call out in some kind of anguish to the Little Kinmen beaches (still littered with anti-landing devices) "Come back, brothers! We love you!" In the golden triangle, the common Minnan culture that was split apart and the ache to be together again is still very strong.

The people of Kinmen were also preparing zongzi in a temple together, cleaning up their banners and athletic pairs of young men were rehearsing their lion dances with their paws on, but no costume. It was great to see what goes on under the huge hood and how they get that pugnacious "attitude" in their movements.